Compositions used in permanent alteration of hair color

ABSTRACT

A permanent hair color altering composition comprising an aqueous preparation on the basis of melanin dissolution and/or oxidation of a hair colorant dye intermediate, which contains as a swelling and penetration agent, an N-alkyl pyrrolidone wherein the alkyl group contains between 8 and 22 carbon atoms.

In one aspect the invention relates to an aqueous composition containinga conditioning, softening and penetrating agent for hair undergoingtreatment with a color altering formulation.

In another aspect the invention relates to an agent which enhances thedissolution of melanin and promotes penetration of an oxidation dyeintermediate into a hair follicle.

In still another aspect the invention relates to an additive for a hairbleaching composition and, in yet another aspect an additive for apermanent hair coloring shampoo composition.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The main coloring component of hair is a dark piqment, melanin, whichoccurs as granules embedded in the hair cortex. The aim of bleaching isto decolorize selectively the natural pigments or applied pigments inthe hair with minimal damage to the hair matrix. When hair is bleached,the color changes to lighter and lighter shades depending upon theamount of melanin granules dissolved and removed from the hair fiber.Hydrogen peroxide is the leading solvent for melanin used in thebleaching process; however, along with melanin removal, the peroxidereacts with keratin to cause loss of tensile properties and damage tothe hair. More specifically, bleaching occurs in two steps: (1) initialsolubilization of the color granules, and (2) decolorization of the darkbrown solubilized pigment. The reaction between melano-protein andhydrogen peroxide is confined mainly to the protein-combined cysteneresidues which are subsequently converted to combined cysteic acid. Thesolubilization of the melanin granules is connected with the splittinqof the disulfide bridges in the melano protein and it is likely that thedisulfide bridge may be the stabilizing factor in melanin, as it is inkeratins.

The bleaching process can be halted at any point or can be permitted tocontinue to a light blonde or platinum shade. The latter provides a goodbackground for a variety of tints which can be obtained by a subsequentcoloring step. Such bleaching and coloring combination is known as adouble process coloring and causes hair damage by promoting porosity,brittleness, loss of tensile strength and dryness.

Permanent hair colorants involve the use of oxidation dye intermediateswhich are colorless substances but which, when mixed with oxidizingagents just prior to use, produce color by a process of oxidativecondensation. More specifically, the intermediates, in the presence ofan oxidant, couple with another oxidation dye intermediate molecule toform a large fused ring color compound within the hair fiber. Since thefused ring product is too large to penetrate the hair fiber, it isessential that good penetration is achieved by the precursorintermediate. The oxidation dye process engenders many changes in thechemical and cosmetic characteristics of the hair which are undesirable.Specifically, the effect of alkali swelling of the hair fiber leads toloss of tensile strength, flexibility and promotes a porous, dryappearance. Additionally, the oxidation dye intermediates often causeskin sensitivity and reddening. Still further, the color imparted onprocessed hair is often non-uniform since the preprocessed sections,have higher porosity and absorb the interemediate at a faster rate thanvirign growth which is more resistant to absorption.

Accordingly, it is an object of this invention to overcome or minimizethe above deficiencies by providing an additive which obviates skinsensitization, conditions the hair during processing, aids in thepenetration of dye intermediate without undue alkaline swelling of thehair fiber, provides complexing sites on which the colorant can form,minimizes the period of hair exposure to chemical solutions, provides amore uniform distribution of color to processed hair by promotingpenetration in portions of new hair growth and preserves the tensileproperties of bleached or dyed hair.

These and other objects of the invention will become apparent from thefollowing description and disclosure.

THE INVENTION

In accordance with the present invention there is provided a N-alkylpyrrolidone which is incorporated into a permanent hair color alteringformulation at a concentration of between about 0.01 to about 12 wt. %,preferably between about 0.5 and about 7.5 wt. % based on total weightof the treating formulation. The alkyl pyrrolidones of the presentinvention are defined by the structure ##STR1## wherein n is an integerhaving a value of from 1 to 3, and R is alkyl having from 8 to 22 carbonatoms. Of these, compounds wherein R is octadecyl, dodecyl, hexadecyl,octyl, isooctyl, hydrogenated tallow, coco or dodecyl are preferred.Most preferred of these species is N-dodecyl pyrrolidone employed in aconcentration of between about 0.75 and about 5.0 wt. %. The presentN-alkyl pyrrolidones are preferably incorporated into the color alteringformulation just before use.

As "formulation" is used herein, it is to be understood that this termincludes a cream, a gel, an emulsion or a watery liquid or solution.

The present alkyl pyrrolidones can be used individually or in admixturesand can be added to any of the commercial hair bleaching or oxidationdye intermediate formulations or compositions containing an oxidationdye intermediate including a permanent shampoo tint, a permanent hairdye, hair bleach, hair blanch or hair dye removal preparation for homeor professional use. Alternatively, such color altering preparations maybe made up using the components normally included in preparationscurrently marketed and the N-alkyl pyrrolidone added to improveproperties and minimize hair damage.

Generally, the permanent hair dye formulations of this invention arethose employed for changing the color of hair, covering up white hair,shading the hair after lightening or simultaneous bleaching and dyeingor double process blonding to provide color alteration of long colordurability.

The permanent dye formulations of this invention conventionally includean oxidation dye intermediate such as an analog or a derivative of aphenylene diamine, an aminophenol, a phenol or naphthol which, uponoxidation couples with itself or another analog or derivative ofphenylene diamine to form a large fused ring compound having at leastone unsaturated chromophoric bond within the hair fiber. The colordeveloped from the colorless intermediate depends on the substituents orterminal groups of the diamine, for example, such groups as an aromaticamine or phenol, an aromatic nitro group or trace amounts of heavymetal. Other factors which alter the shade of the dyed hair includeconcentration, alkaninity, base composition and the combination ofintermediates involved in the oxidation reaction. The following Table Iprovides a representative group of dye intermediates, color couplers andmodifiers employed to obtain specific hair shades.

                                      TABLE I                                     __________________________________________________________________________    Black   Dark/medium brown                                                                          Light brown                                                                           Reddish    Blonds       Blue/gray;               __________________________________________________________________________                                                         modifiers                p-aminodi-                                                                            p-aminodiphenylamine                                                                       o-aminophenol                                                                         2-amino-4-nitrophenol                                                                    p-aminodiphenylamine-                                                                      p-aminodiphenyl-         phenylamine                             sulfonic acid                                                                              amine hydrochloride      p,p'-diamino-                                                                         o-aminophenol                                                                              p-aminophenol-                                                                        4-amino-2-nitrophenol                                                                    4-amino-2-nitrophenol                                                                      N--(p-amino-             diphenyl amine       hydrochloride                   phenyl)glycine           2,5-diamino-                                                                          p-aminophenol                                                                              p,p'-diamino-                                                                         2,4-diaminophenol                                                                        p-aminophenol hydro-                                                                       2,4-diaminoanisole       phenol-4-sul-        diphenylamine      chloride                              fonic acid                                                                    1,8-diamino-                                                                          N--(p-aminophenyl)-                                                                        2,4-diamino-                                                                          4,6-dinitro-2-amino-                                                                     2-aminophenol-4-sul-                                                                       p,p'-diaminodi-          naphthalene                                                                           glycine      phenol  phenol     fonic acid   phenylmethane            o-phenylene-                                                                          o-anisidine  2-nitro-p-phen-                                                                       5-nitro-m-phenylene-                                                                     4-aminophenol-2-sul-                                                                       2,4-diamino-             diamine              ylenediamine                                                                          diamine    fonic acid   phenetole                p-phenylene-                                                                          2,4-diamonophenol                                                                          m-phenylene-                                                                          4-nitro-o-phenylene-                                                                     5-aminophenol-2-sul-                                                                       1,5-naphthalenediol      diamine              diamine diamine    fonic acid                            m-toluene-                                                                            N,N--dimethyl-p-phen-                                                                      p-phenylene-                                                                          2-nitro-p-phenylene-                                                                     2,5-diaminophenol-4-                                                                       m-phenylene              diamine ylenediamine diamine hydro-                                                                        diamine    sulfonic acid                                                                              diamine                                       chloride                                                 p-toluene-                                                                            N--(p-hydroxyphenyl)-                                                                      p-tolylene-                                                                           2,4,6-trinitroaniline                                                                    N--(2-hydroxy-5-nitro-                                                                     pyrocatechol             diamine glycine      diamine            phenyl)glycine                                p-methylaminophenol             N--(p-nitrophenyl)glycine                                                                  pyrogallol                       4-nitro-o-phenylenediamine      m-phenylenediamine                                                                         resorcinol                                                       hydrochloride                                 m-phenylenediamine              p-phenylenediamine                                                                         p-tolylenediamine                                                sulfate                                       p-phenylenediamine                                                    __________________________________________________________________________

Other compounds which act as color modifiers or couplers includem-diamines, m-amino phenols, polyhydroxy phenols, which are alsostabilizers and antioxidants, and naphthols. The later are often used assecondary dye intermediates in the formulation. Pyridine derivativeshave also been suggested for use as a dye intermediate in place ofphenylene diamines. In some cases direct dyes can be added to theformulations to provide color highlights.

The color vehicle for the dye intermediates is employed at a pH usuallybetween about 9 and 11 which can be adjusted with ammonium hydroxide tothe desired level of alkalinity. The ammonium hydroxide base ispreferred since ammonia assists in swelling the hair fiber and by beingeasily removed. More specifically, the color vehicle is an aqueoussolution of soap or synthetic detergent which provides wetting andpenetration of the dye intermediate. Ammonium oleate, alkanol amides andshampoo detergents such as fatty alkyl sulfates, fatty acid polypeptidecondensates and oxyethylated fatty alcohols are most commonly employed.

In addition to the dye intermediate and color vehicle, formulations mayalso include interemediate solubility aids such as propylene glycol,ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol and conditioners such as glycerol,lanolin, oleyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, etc. and antioxidants such as asulfite, primarily sodium sulfite or bisulfite, and thioglycolic acidwhich are usually included to prevent premature oxidation. The additionof the present N-alkyl pyrrolidone to this formulation obviates the needfor other conditioners promotes penetration of the intermediate into thehair fiber particularly in the areas of new growth, substantiallyreduces skin sensitization, promotes hair fiber swelling and results ina more uniform distribution of color while giving the hair a soft,silky, conditioned texture after processing. Although the practicalamount of N-alkyl pyrrolidone added to the formulation is within therange of from about 0.1 to about 7.5 wt. % of the total formulation, itis to be understood that larger amounts, up to about 12 wt. % can beemployed without deleterious effect, economics being the limitingconsideration.

The oxidation dye intermediate formulation is applied to the hair with aoxidation dye developer. The developer is an oxidant mixed with theintermediate formulation just before application and is usually appliedin equal parts with the intermediate formulation; although when hydrogenperoxide is used as the developer, between about 1.5 and about 2 partsperoxide per part of intermediate can be used to cause bleaching andcoloring in a single application. Creams or aqueous solutions of 5 to 7%hydrogen peroxide or urea peroxide are the primary developerscommercially employed. However other developers which have beensuqgested include chloroates, persulfates, perborates and sodiumdichromate. The present N-alkyl pyrrolidone compounds of this inventioncan also be added to the developer formultion for more uniformdistribution and/or thickening effect as in cream applications.

The above dye components are often formulated into shampoos with oleatesoaps or ethoxylated fatty alcohols to prevent drip and run-off.

The hair dye operations may be followed by a final conditioningtreatment, a neutralizing rinse or an acid balanced shampoo containingin addition to cationic or amphoteric surfactants, cation-activeemollients and quarternary polymers. The present N-alkyl pyrrolidonesmay also be added to such neutralizing applications for conditioningeffect.

Some typical hair dye formulations are illustrated by the following

    ______________________________________                                        OXIDATION DYE INTERMEDIATE                                                    Ingredients         % by Wt.                                                  ______________________________________                                        A. ASH BLONDE HAIR DYE                                                        Oleic acid          35.00                                                     Ethoxylated Sorbitan                                                                              10.00                                                     Oleate (5 Mole Ethoxylate)                                                    Soriban Oleate      3.50                                                      PEG-40 Sorbitan Lanolate                                                                          1.75                                                      Lecithin Hydroxylated                                                                             1.25                                                      EDTA (ethylene diamine                                                                            0.10                                                      tetra acetic acid)                                                            Sodium Sulfite      0.50                                                      Deionized/Distilled Water                                                                         31.19                                                     Ammonium Hydroxide, 28%                                                                           10.00                                                     Isopropyl Alcohol   2.50                                                      P--Phenylenediamine 0.60                                                      O---Aminophenol     0.10                                                      P--Aminophenol      0.01                                                      4-Nitro-1,2-Diaminobenzene                                                                        0.30                                                      Pyrogallol          0.70                                                      Resorcinol          0.20                                                      Hydroquinone        0.10                                                      Perfume             0.20                                                      N--n-Dodecyl Pyrrolidone                                                                          2.00                                                                          100.00                                                    B. BLUE VIOLET HAIR DYE                                                       Oleic acid          35.00                                                     Ethoxylated Sorbitan                                                                              10.00                                                     Oleate (5 Mole Ethoxylate)                                                    Soriban Oleate      3.50                                                      PEG-40 Sorbitan Lanolate                                                                          1.75                                                      Lecithin Hydroxylated                                                                             1.25                                                      EDTA (ethylene diamine                                                                            0.10                                                      tetra acetic acid)                                                            Sodium Sulfite      0.50                                                      Deionized/Distilled Water                                                                         29.90                                                     Ammonium Hydroxide, 28%                                                                           10.00                                                     Isopropyl Alcohol   2.50                                                      P--Phenylenediamine 0.55                                                      P--Aminophenol      0.90                                                      1,5 Dihydroxy naphthalene                                                                         0.80                                                      2,4-Diaminoanisole Sulfate                                                                        0.25                                                      Pyrocatachol        0.80                                                      Perfume             0.20                                                      N--n-Dodecyl Pyrrolidone                                                                          2.00                                                                          100.00                                                    C. BLACK HAIR DYE                                                             Oleic acid          35.00                                                     Ethoxylated Sorbitan                                                                              10.00                                                     Oleate (5 Mole Ethoxylate)                                                    Soriban Oleate      3.50                                                      PEG-40 Sorbitan Lanolate                                                                          1.75                                                      Lecithin Hydroxylated                                                                             1.25                                                      EDTA (ethylene diamine                                                                            0.10                                                      tetra acetic acid)                                                            Sodium Sulfite      0.50                                                      Deionized/Distilled Water                                                                         28.49                                                     Ammonium Hydroxide, 28%                                                                           10.00                                                     Isopropyl Alcohol   2.50                                                      P--Phenylenediamine 3.75                                                      *2,4-Diaminoanisole,l;                                                        P--Phenylenediamine,2                                                                             0.05                                                      1,5-Dihydroxy naphthalene                                                                         0.06                                                      P--Aminodiphenylamine                                                                             0.05                                                      Perfume             0.20                                                      N--n-Dodecyl Pyrrolidone                                                                          2.00                                                                          100.00                                                    D. MEDIUM RED HAIR DYE                                                        Oleic acid          35.00                                                     Ethoxylated Sorbitan                                                                              10.00                                                     Oleate (5 Mole Ethoxylate)                                                    Soriban Oleate      3.50                                                      PEG-40 Sorbitan Lanolate                                                                          1.75                                                      Lecithin Hydroxylated                                                                             1.25                                                      EDTA (ethylene diamine                                                                            0.10                                                      tetra acetic acid)                                                            Sodium Sulfite      0.50                                                      Deionized/Distilled Water                                                                         23.25                                                     Ammonium Hydroxide, 28%                                                                           10.00                                                     Isopropyl Alcohol   2.50                                                      2-Nitro-p-Phenylenediamine                                                                        2.50                                                      4-Nitro-o-Phenylenediamine                                                                        0.50                                                      P--Phenylenediamine 1.00                                                      P--Aminophenol      1.00                                                      *4-Nitro-o-Phenylenediamine,1;                                                2-Nitro-p-Phenylenediamine,1                                                                      0.15                                                      4-Amino-2-Nitrophenol                                                                             1.50                                                      Pyrogallol          2.0                                                       Resorcinol          1.3                                                       Perfume             0.20                                                      N--n-Dodecyl Pyrrolidone                                                                          2.00                                                                          100.00                                                    ______________________________________                                         *fusion mixtures                                                         

The same developer solution can be used for each of the above hair dyes.The following formulation is representative of a suitable developer.

    ______________________________________                                        Ingredient         % by Wt.                                                   ______________________________________                                        Hydrogen Peroxide, 30%                                                                           20.00                                                      Nonoxynol-9        5.00                                                       Nonoxynol-4        2.00                                                       Phosphoric Acid    0.50                                                       Cetyl Alcohol      0.50                                                       Stearyl Alcohol    0.50                                                       Deionized Water    71.50                                                                         100.00                                                     ______________________________________                                    

If desired lactam can be added to the above developing formulationinstead of to the dye formulation or the amount of lactam can be dividedbetween both the dye and developer formulations. The concentration oflactam in dye and developer system can range between about 0.75% andabout 7.5% by weight, preferably between about 1% and about 5% byweight.

Bleaching involves a process for partial or complete oxidativedegradation of the natural color pigment, i.e. melanin granules mainlypresent in cortex of hair fiber, or removal of applied dye pigment in oron the hair. As a side reaction, bleaching also attacks the hair cuticleproteins, i.e. the keratin protein, and causes oxidative modificationsof both the cuticle and cortex proteins; thus decolorizing dissolvedmelanin color granules and reducing the cross-linking capacity ofcystine by oxidation to cysteic acid.

The most common bleaching agent comprises an aqueous soltuion ofhydrogen peroxide of between about 5 to 9% strength in a formulationadjusted to a pH of from about 9 to about 11; although urea peroxide andother hydrogen peroxide creams incorporating a thickening agent such asa fatty alcohol or an alkanolamide can also be used.

The peroxide bleaching agent is employed with an activator which isadded just before use, ammonium hydroxide being preferred by mostpractitioners since the ammonia swells the hair fiber to allow forperoxide penetration and is volatile which permits easy removal. Otheractivators which have been employed include sodium carbonate andethanolamines. Bleach accelerators and boosters such as persulfate saltsof ammonia, potassium and sodium may be used as well and conditionerse.g. ammonium oleate soap, a lipophilic surfactant, cholesterol andlanolin derivatives, are generally included in the peroxide formulation.Notwithstanding the generous use of such conditioning agents, noticeabledrying, splitting and texture loss to the hair occurs. Subsequentreoxidation restores the cystine of most of the cysteine residues formedduring reduction to disulfide bonds. Reported recoveries areapproximately 90%. Still, the bleaching process causes damage such astangles, dryness, brittleness, greater porosity, swelling, frizzing,etc.

The present N-alkyl pyrrolidones can be added to these formulations inthe above amounts to minimize skin sensitivity, to preserve the tensileproperties of the hair and to provide a strong conditioning action byforming a thin film over the hair cuticle which eliminates or minimizeshair dryness and breakage. Also, because of their high penetrating powerand hair swelling properties, the present N-alkyl pyrrolidones arecapable of diminishing the time hair is exposed to the chemicaloxidation process.

Some typical hair bleaching formulations include the following.

    ______________________________________                                        BLEACH FORMULATION A                                                          Ingredient           % by Weight                                              ______________________________________                                        Polyethylene glycol oleyl ether                                                                    14.02%                                                   Oleic acid           7.01                                                     Ethanol              4.67                                                     Monoethanolamine     2.80                                                     Ethoxylated nonyl phenol                                                                           2.33                                                     H.sub.2 O.sub.2 50%  6.89                                                     K persulfate         2.95                                                     NH.sub.4 persulfate  0.92                                                     Na persulfate        2.95                                                     Disodium EDTA        0.13                                                     Na metasilicate      6.15                                                     H.sub.2 O            49.18                                                    ______________________________________                                    

    ______________________________________                                        BLEACH FORMULATION B                                                          Ingredient            % by Weight                                             ______________________________________                                        Cetyl Alcohol         2.50                                                    Glyceryl Monostearate and Polyethylene                                        Glycol 100 Stearate [Arlacel 165]                                                                   2.50                                                    Deionized H.sub.2 O   86.43                                                   Hydrogen Peroxide, 35% (dilution grade)                                                             8.57                                                    Phosphoric Acid, 10% C.P.                                                                           to pH 3.5 to 4.0                                                              100.00                                                  ______________________________________                                    

    ______________________________________                                        BLEACH FORMULATION C                                                          (CREAM FORM)                                                                  Ingredient            % by Weight                                             ______________________________________                                        Cetyl Alcohol         10.00                                                   Glyceryl Monostearate and Polyethylene                                        Glycol 100 Stearate [Arlacel 165]                                                                    2.50                                                   Deionized Water       70.36                                                   Hydrogen Peroxide, 35%, (dilution grade)                                                            17.14                                                   Phosphoric Acid, 10% C.P.                                                                           to pH 3.5 to 4.0                                                              100.00                                                  ______________________________________                                    

Other areas in the cosmetic color alternation of hair where the N-alkylpyrrolidones of this invention can be applied include hair blanchingwhich employs sulfur dioxide or potassium permanganate followed bysodium thiosulfate to convert hair of mixed grey to snowy white andprocesses for certain hair dye removal techniques which employ a weaksolution of sodium hydrosulfite, sodium thiosulfate or aminoiminomethanesulfinic acid.

The present N-alkyl pyrrolidones can be incorporated into any of theforegoing formulations simply by mixing in the prescribed amount,preferably just before use, at ambient temperature and pressure for aperiod sufficient to provide uniform distribution.

Having thus generally described the invention, reference is now had tothe following examples which illustrate preferred embodiments but whichare not to be construed as limiting to the scope of the invention asmore broadly set forth above and in the appended claims.

EXAMPLE 1

An evaluation of N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone, as an additive to a standardtype of shampoo tint (Nice n' Easy by Clairol - Shade #118, mediumbrown) was made as described below.

Shampoo tint formulation A-C having the following compositions weredivided into equal parts. The first divided portions A-C were combinedand immediately applied to the left side of the hair on the scalp of thesubject undergoing testing. The subject had light brown and grey hair ofmedium texture and quality. To the remaining divided portions A-C, afterbeing combined, 1 wt. % of N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone was added. The latercombined A-C portion, containing the pyrrolidone, was applied to thehair on the right side of the scalp of said subject.

    ______________________________________                                                                 Wt. %                                                ______________________________________                                        A. Ingredients for Color                                                      Water                      qs                                                 Tall oil acid              7.50                                               Propylene glycol           4.40                                               Iso C.sub.3 alcohol        4.35                                               Octoxynol-1                3.50                                               Nonoxynol-4                2.00                                               NH.sub.4 OH, 26° Baume                                                                            1.15                                               Ethoxydiglycol             0.75                                               Cocamide diethanolamide    3.50                                               Polyethyleneglycol-8 tallow amine                                                                        0.50                                               Sulfated Castor Oil        1.50                                               Erythorbic Acid            0.50                                               Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid                                                                          0.01                                               Glycol                     0.25                                               Na sulfite                 0.05                                               N,N--bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-p-                                                                              0.18                                               phenylenediamine sulfate                                                      1-Naphthol                 0.08                                               Resorcinol                 0.31                                               p-Phenylenediamine         0.35                                               Fragrance                  0.50                                               Adjust pH to 9.8                                                              B. Ingredients for Developer                                                  H.sub.2 O.sub.2, 30%       20.00                                              Nonoxynol-9                5.00                                               Nonoxynol-4                2.00                                               Phosphoric Acid            0.50                                               Cetyl Alcohol              0.50                                               Stearyl Alcohol            0.50                                               Water                      71.50                                              C. Ingredients in Conditioner Lotion                                          Hydroxyethyl Cellulose         1.00                                           Ethoxydiglycol                 0.50                                           Polyquaternium - 6             0.50                                           Cocoamphocarboxypropionate     25.00                                          Cocamidopropyl Betaine         10.00                                          Glycol                         5.00                                           Quaternium - 15                0.25                                           Sorbic Acid                    0.20                                           Phosphoric Acid      to pH     3.0                                            Fragrance                      0.20                                           Water                          qs                                             ______________________________________                                    

The lotions on the hair on each side of the scalp were allowed to remainfor a period of 30 minutes, after which they were rinsed away withwater. The hair was then shampooed and blown dry. The followingevaluations comparing the hair on the right and left side of the scalpwere made on a scale of 0 to 3 wherein 0 represents no improvement orbenefit, 1 represents slight improvement, 2 indicates noticeableimprovement and 3 indicates great improvement and benefit.

    ______________________________________                                        Characteristics     Right Side                                                                              Left Side                                       ______________________________________                                        Skin Irritation     1         0                                               Penetration of Bleach                                                                             3         1                                               H.sub.2 O Rinseability                                                                            3         0                                               Reduced Hair Porosity                                                                             3         0                                               Coverage of Grey    3         2                                               Reduced Snarling    3         0                                               Combability         3         0                                               Conditioning        3         0                                               Manageability       3         0                                               Silky Feel          3         0                                               Luster              3         0                                               Body                3         0                                               Color retention (after 3 weeks)                                                                   3         1                                               Ease of Application*                                                                              3         0                                               ______________________________________                                         *The bleach on the right side was more evenly distributed on the hair and     showed better penetration. It seems that the presence of lactam minimizes     swelling of the bleach solution which causes the bleach to lift in spots      along the hair fiber and to give uneven results.                         

The above bleaching test was repeated on 5 different subjects havingmedium texture, unbleached, untinted, and non-permed hair of goodcondition and varying darker shades and each showed the same results asreported in this example.

EXAMPLE 2

Example 1 was repeated on a similar subject, except thatN-octadecyl-2-pyrrolidone was substituted for N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone.The characteristics resulting from this test were essentially the sameas reported in Example 1.

EXAMPLE 3

Example 1 was repeated on a similar subject, except thatN-hexadecyl-2-pyrrolidone was substituted for N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone.The characteristics found in this test were essentially the same asreported in Example 1.

EXAMPLE 4

Example 1 was repeated on a similar subject, except thatN-octyl-2-pyrrolidone was substituted for N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone. Thecharacteristics found in this test were essentially the same as reportedin example 1, except that penetration was very slightly less.

EXAMPLE 5

Example 1 was repeated on a similar subject, except thatN-isoctyl-2-pyrrolidone was substituted for N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone. Thecharacteristics found in this test were essentially the same as thosereported in Example 1.

EXAMPLE 6

Example 1 was repeated on a similar subject, except that N-hydrogenatedtallow-2-pyrrolidone was substituted fOr N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone. Thecharacteristics found in this test were essentially the same as thosereported in Example 1 except that the hair conditioning properties wereeven more pronounced.

EXAMPLE 7

Example 1 was repeated on a similar subject, except thatN-coco-2-pyrrolidone was substituted for N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone. Thecharacteristics found in this test were essentially the same as thosereported in Example 1. The substitution of the coco-pyrrolidone affectsthe cost of the overall composition since this lactam is considerablyless expensive than some others in the present group.

EXAMPLE 8

Example 1 was repeated on a similar subject, except that only 0.05 wt. %of N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone was added to the formulation A-C.

EXAMPLE 9

Example 1 was repeated on a similar subject, except that 5.0 wt. % ofN-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone was added to the formulation A-C.

EXAMPLE 10

Example 1 was repeated on a similar subject, except that 0.5 wt. % ofN-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone and 0.5 wt. % of N-hexadecyl-2-pyrrolidone inadmixture were added to the formulation A-C.

It was noted in Examples 8, 9 and 10 that generally the same benefits asachieved in Example 1 were obtained; although to a greater or slightlylesser extent which is directly related to the increased or decreasedamount of the lactam present in the composition.

EXAMPLE 11

An evaluation of N-alkyl pyrrolidone additive to a standard type of hairbleach (L'Oreal Super Oreal Blanc) was made as described below.

The hair bleach formulation X-Y containing the following compositionswere divided into equal parts of X and Y. The first divided portions ofX-Y were combined and immediately applied to the hair on the right sideof the scalp of the subject undergoing testing. The subject had mediumbrown hair of good texture and quality. To the remaining divided X-Yportions, after being combined, 2 wt. % of N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone wasadded. The later mixsture of combined X-Y portions, containing thepyrrolidone, was applied to the hair on the left side of the scalp ofsaid subject.

    ______________________________________                                                               Wt. %                                                  ______________________________________                                        X. Ingredients in Bleach                                                      Polyoxyethylene glycol oleyl ether                                                                     14.02                                                Citric acid              7.01                                                 Ethyl alcohol            4.67                                                 Monoethanol amine        2.80                                                 Ethoxylated nonyl phenol 2.33                                                 H.sub.2 O.sub.2 (50%)    6.89                                                 Potassium persulfate     2.95                                                 Ammonium persulfate      0.92                                                 Sodium persulfate        2.95                                                 Disodium ethylenediamine tetra acetic acid                                                             0.13                                                 Sodium metasilicate      6.15                                                 Deionized distilled water                                                                              49.18                                                Developer                                                                     H.sub.2 O.sub.2 (30%)    20.00                                                Nonoxynol-9              5.00                                                 Nonoxynol-4              2.00                                                 Phosphoric acid          0.50                                                 Cetyl alcohol            0.50                                                 Stearyl alcohol          0.50                                                 Water                    71.50                                                ______________________________________                                    

The combined lotions on each side of the scalp were separatelymaintained on the hair for the prescribed period, 30 minutes, afterwhich the lotions were rinsed away with water. The hair was blown dryand the following evaluations comparing the hair on the right and leftside of the scalp were made on a scale of 0 to 3 as in Example 1.

    ______________________________________                                        Characteristics     Right Side                                                                              Left Side                                       ______________________________________                                        skin irritation     0         1                                               color penetration   1         3                                               dry combability     0         3                                               manageability       0         3                                               lack of odor        0         3                                               color blending      1         3                                               color coverage      1         3                                               wet combability     0         3                                               hair softness       0         3                                               body                0         3                                               conditioning        0         3                                               hair luster         0         3                                               color retention (3 weeks)                                                                         1         3                                               ______________________________________                                    

The above test was repeated on 5 different subjects having fine tocourse, processed and unprocessed hair of various lighter shades andeach showed essentially the same results as set forth in the aboveevaluation.

EXAMPLE 12

Example 11 was repeated on a similar subject, except thatN-octadecyl-2-pyrrolidone was substituted for N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone.The characteristics found in this example were essentially the same asthose reported in Example 11.

EXAMPLE 13

Example 11 was repeated on a similar subject, except thatN-hexadecyl-2-pyrrolidone was substituted for N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone.The characteristics found in this example were essentially the same asthose reported in Example 11.

EXAMPLE 14

Example 11 was repeated on a similar subject, except thatN-octyl-2-pyrrolidone was substituted for N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone. Thecharacteristics found in this example were essentially the same as thosereported in Example 11.

EXAMPLE 15

Example 11 was repeated on a similar subject, except thatN-isooctyl-2-pyrrolidone was substituted for N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone.The characteristics found in this example were essentiallY the same asthose reported in Example 12.

EXAMPLE 16

Example 11 was repeated on a similar subject except that N-hydrogenatedtallow-2-pyrrolidone was substituted for N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone. Thecharacteristics found in this example were essentially the same as thosereported in Example 11, except that slightly better conditioning wasevident.

EXAMPLE 17

Example 11 was repeated on a similar subject except thatN-coco-2-pyrrolidone was substituted for N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone. Thecharacteristics found in this example were essentially the same as thosereported in Example 11.

EXAMPLE 18

Example 11 was repeated on a similar subject, except that 0.05 wt. % ofN-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone was added to the bleach formulation X-Y. Thecharacteristics found in this test were essentially the same as thosereported in Example 11, except that less conditioning effect wasachieved due to the lowered amount of lactam.

EXAMPLE 19

Example 11 was repeated on a similar subject, except that 5.0 wt. % ofN-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone was added to the bleach formulation X-Y. Thecharacteristics found in this test were essentially the same as thosereported in Example 11, exoept that the hair conditioning affect waseven more pronounced.

EXAMPLE 20

Example 11 was repeated on a similar subject, except that 1 wt. % ofN-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1 wt. % of N-hexadecyl-2-pyrrolidone inadmixture was substituted for 2% N-dodecyl-2-pyrrolidone. Thecharacteristics found in this test were essentially the same as thosereported in Example 11, except that slightly less conditioning wasachieved due to the lower amount of lactam.

What is claimed is:
 1. A composition for permanently altering the color of hair containing between about 0.1 wt. % and about 12 wt. % of an N-alkyl-2-pyrrolidone having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
 2. The composition of claim 1 containing between about 0.5 wt. % and about 7.5 wt. % of said N-alkyl-2-pyrrolidone.
 3. A hair bleaching composition containing between about 0.01 wt. % and about 12 wt. % of the N-alkyl pyrrolidone of claim
 1. 4. The hair bleaching composition of claim 3 containing hydrogen peroxide and an ammonia containing activator.
 5. The composition of claim 4 wherein said composition is an aqueous solution.
 6. The composition of claim 4 wherein said composition is a cream.
 7. A permanent hair coloring composition containing between about 0.1 wt. % and about 12 wt. % of the N-alkyl-2-pyrrolidone of claim
 1. 8. The hair coloring composition of claim 7 containing an oxidation dye as the hair coloring agent and an oxidizing agent.
 9. The composition of claim 8 wherein said composition is an aqueous solution.
 10. The composition of claim 8 wherein said composition is a cream.
 11. The composition of claim 8 formulated in a shampoo composition.
 12. A permanent hair coloring composition comprising an alkaline solution of a phenylene diamine hair dyeing agent at pH of from 9 to 11, a peroxide containing oxidizing dye developer and an effective conditioning amount of the N-alkyl-2-pyrrolidone of claim
 1. 13. The process of applying to the hair a bleaching composition containing an effective hair conditioning amount of the N-alkyl-2-pyrrolidone of claim
 1. 14. The process of claim 13 wherein the effective amount of N-alkyl-2-pyrrolidone is between about 0.5 and about 7.5 wt. %, based on total composition.
 15. The process of claim 13 wherein said N-alkyl-2-pyrrolidone is added to said bleaching composition immediately before applying to the hair.
 16. The process of applying to the hair a permanent hair coloring composition and an effective hair conditioning amount of the N-alkyl-2-pyrrolidone of claim
 1. 17. The process of claim 16 wherein the effective amount of N-alkyl-2-pyrrolidone is between about 0.5 and about 7.5 wt. %, based on total composition.
 18. The process of claim 16 wherein said N-alkyl-2-pyrrolidone is added to the hair coloring composition immediately before applying to the hair.
 19. The process of claim 18 wherein said permanent hair coloring composition consists essentially of a dye formulation and a developing formulation and wherein said N-alkyl-2-pyrrolidone is added to at least one of said formulations prior to their mixture and application to hair.
 20. The process of applying to the hair a shampoo tint containing an effective hair conditioning amount of the N-alkyl-2-pyrrolidone of claim
 1. 21. The process of claim 20 wherein said effective amount of N-alkyl-2-pyrrolidone is between about 0.5 and about 7.5 wt. %, based on total composition. 